Sunday, December 09, 2007

Beam Me Up Some Beta, Scotty!

A while back, I was following someone on Bloody Bush. On the ground, he'd asked if I would like to take the second pitch, but for some reason the decision wasn't made before he set off.

Worried about the lead, because I had no idea where the route went, I tucked my guidebook in my windjacket so I could review it at the belay. The pockets weren't big enough, of course, and so I just slipped it in through the front opening and zipped up. My harness was cinched over the jacket's bottom, and I figured the book was secure.

Within a few moves, the book navigated from flat against my torso to a side-poking position, and eventually settled uncomfortably, prodding various places along my backbone.

Continuing on my way and enjoying the climb, I soon came to the crux move - a crouching, reachy and insecure, committing lunge move over a bit of air. Gulp....

Timidly I went for it, scared as I was, since the fall would have been a pendulum. There was no other choice. Halfway through I knew I could do it and was beginning an exhaling sigh of relief. But then I had to stretch just a liiiiittle more, reaching for the security of a hand hold.

Suddenly - a fluttering noise broke through the quiet in the autumn afternoon. My first thought was that I'd unknowingly disturbed a nest of bats! AAACCCKKKK!!! I crouched further, dropping my head to my chest in a protective reaction, almost sliding off the slab-like feature I was perched upon. At the same time, I hear my partner yelling ROCK!

"ROCK! ROCK! ROCK!" he screamed, warning anybody below.

"What the...?" I thought to myself. My fear of bat attack was quickly replaced by a more ominous dread; that I'd dislodged a rock and sent it on a downward spiral, possibly directed at some innocent below. And not only that, but I'd done it completely unaware - the absolute WORST error a climber can make in a populated area.

I looked down, ready to yell further warning, since I had a more direct view, and saw that my boulder had transformed to a beautiful white dove, fluttering it's wings upward. Time stopped, and with joy I watched the sunlight glittering off it's wings, realizing no one would die at my hand that day.

Of course, it wasn't a dove. It was my guidebook, which had slipped out the bottom of my jacket as I pushed for that reaching move..... The white feathered wings were the paper pages sandwiched between the dove grey cover of my Dick Williams guidebook....

I felt like a jackass gumby.
.
.
.
Which brings me to the point of this post.

Scotty, a local Gunks climber most anyone who's ever been there would recognize by his long thin beard and beret, has been making and selling an excellent pouch that perfectly fits the Gunks guides. They are simple in design, which is important in climbing. No extraneous doodads to snag in your rack while you're sketched and run out, with only enough left inside to make a grab for your nuts.

And, of course, no loose guidebooks flapping in the breeze, sailing off the cliff like skittling gravel under a fool's foot on a belay ledge.

His web page modestly compliments the humbleness of the design. Take a look for yourself!

My friend and climbing partner Irina has one of Scotty's bookbags, and so I can say from experience that the thing does what he says it does! Lots of experience...for Irina always makes me clip it on my harness, along with her small Nalgene of water, whenever I am seconding her on a multipitch. I draw the line at carrying her camera, though, although that doesn't stop her from trying to get me to snap that on, too.

Scotty's bags are just the right size for the Gunks books. He says they hold both sizes of the local books - Swain's or the Big Grey Dick. We use William's grey book, and it does slip easily inside the pouch. With a gentle pull of the zip, which does seem to be of a high quality(Believe me, I know from crappy zippers, having been a designer of cheap, imported handbags for many years), the closure holds securely. Despite many days at the crag, the zipper still pulls without a snag along the way.

Finally, not only is the bag good for carrying a guide on multipitch, but it also helps to keep the book clean and in good condition between cragging days. Bag it and toss it in your gear bin; you won't have crumbled or dirty-stained pages as happens to most guidebooks that see a lot of use.

The reason I am writing this bit of a promotion is not just to promote a good, locally made product, but because I noticed that Scotty has posted an announcement of the goods in the for sale section at Gunks.com. You can see what others have written as well, so don't take my word for it!

I'm going to ask if Scotty can do custom sizes, since other areas may have books that are larger than our Gunks books. Check the thread above to see what his answer is!

EDIT 12/12 - Scotty says that, yes, he can do custom sizes. Just email him to discuss!

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Saturday, December 08, 2007

Alpinist Magazine Warehouse Destroyed by Fire

While scanning the forum pages over at Supertopo this morning, I was jolted on the sight of a thread title "Alpinist Warehouse Burns to the Ground".

The magazine is undeniably the best available when it comes to print media reportage and photojournalism in the field of climbing. They shun commercial advertising from their pages in order to bring a more intensive experience for the reader, and thus run it out on a thiner cord than most any shoestring-budgeted company out there.

The depth of such a catastrophic blow registered immediately to me. And in reading a provided link to the Alpinist website, my thoughts were confirmed.

Their entire back inventory has been lost, along with all their stock in promotional items such as t-shirts, hats, stickers, etc. (NOTE: Since the link brings one to the current front page of their site, I've pasted the story below, for future reference. The buttons on this image do NOT bring you to working links.)

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket PHOTO

Within the story is a hotlink to a local news article, with just a little information, as would be expected. For a municipality, this is not a sensational story. Of course in the climbing world it is big news.

For updates on details, you can follow the Supertopo link I first listed. Here it is, again, for easy reference.

The folks at Alpinist ask a favor of support in this difficult time, and I think most of us are all too happy to step up and do so. I'll be ordering a subscription right away(as soon as I get back from walking Teddy....he's wondering why his walk is delayed!). And I also need a new calendar for 2008 - Can't think of a better one to have. Hopefully my local dealer still has one when I contact them, but if not - that's a good thing too!

Please - help get the word out to others who may not be as much an internet junkie as myself. Email this page, or the links to either the Supertopo thread or the Alpinist site to those you know.




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Tuesday, December 04, 2007

Ranger Gord Helps Me Tide Things Over

I knowwwww..... I have been remiss in my personal storytelling!

Ever since I got back from Joshua Tree, and the season ended at the Gunks, I have been procrastinating on this blog. In one way, it's bizarre, since I actually have tons more time right now. Stuck in the city, hunkering down for the winter.... But on the other hand, it makes sense. I haven't got new, exciting inspirational adventures to go on and on andonandon(That's really a word, you know. If you don't believe me, Google it!) about.

I've uploaded some pictures from the Jtree trip that I want to tell about, but need to go through my notes to get some information for the text. And the devil certainly IS in the details, because I just can't seem to garner the energy to see where I left those papers once I unpacked.....hahaha.

So, in the interim, I'm going to pull another internet 'EZ Post' and post about an item I found while whiling away my hours on the web.... Third time's the charm, they say. Since this will be my 3rd EZ, maybe it'll help me get back to my usual format; the one which so many of you love dearly - the The Blah, Blah, Blah Blog Entry.

But - as usual - I digress. Let's get to the point.

I'm gonna send you over to Ranger Gord's Campfire Stories for a while. But don't click the link yet!

Why? Because I need to say that I think this is a great find; a blog from a ranger who has got some really good stuff, and is a damned fine writer! His byline reads "Stories about parks, the people who work there and the people that visit them." And that is exactly what you will find. Let's hope what you don't find is a story about yourself....

This is one of my favorites. I'm not going to give the title. You'll just have to trust me.....

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